RE: Forceing Bulbs
- To: "'perennials@mallorn.com'"
- Subject: RE: Forceing Bulbs
- From: S* S*
- Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 13:55:48 -0800
Wow. Thanks Duncan.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Duncan McAlpine [m*@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, November 04, 1999 1:01 PM
> To: perennials@mallorn.com
> Subject: Re: Forceing Bulbs
>
>
> Let us consider the hardy bulbs first. They are
> planted in the early fall in pots or bulb pans. Use
> Potting Mixture 3,(See http://www.plantideas.com/)
> omitting the cow manure, unless otherwise indicated
> and plenty of drainage material. After the bulbs are
> potted (instructions for potting are included with
> description of species), they are ready for storing.
> Storing is extremely important in the successful
> culture of hardy bulbous house plants; indifference to
> this essential step is responsible for many failures
> in flowering. Hardy bulbs require a strong root
> structure before top-growth is allowed to develop.
> When planted outside in the garden, they develop roots
> normally during the fall and winter. If they are to be
> forced indoors, some substitute for the natural
> root-developing period must be provided. This is
> accomplished by burying the bulbs, pot and all, in
> cold frames, trenches, or pits out of doors. Place the
> pots on a layer of ashes and cover them to a depth of
> 6 inches to 1 foot with ashes or sand. After the bulbs
> have been in storage for six or seven weeks, examine
> the pots. If roots project through the drainage hole,
> they are ready to be taken into the house. If no roots
> show, let the pots remain buried for a week or two
> longer (the relative rooting period is given in the
> table of species). When several containers of tulips
> or hyacinths are stored at the same time, the
> additional pots may be brought into the house at
> two-week intervals which will give a succession of
> flowers. It will not injure the bulbs to leave them in
> the ground in the meanwhile.
>
>
>
>
> =====
>
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