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Re: planting preparation


I'm not sure what all the fuss about controlling foxtail and 
crabgrass is about, since they are readily suppressed by several 
4-6 inch mowings while the prairie plants get established (the first 
season or two). After that, the perennial vegetation and relatively 
undisturbed soil conditions cause them to diminish to virtually 
negligible levels naturally. Indeed, in my experience this applies 
to all the short-lived pioneer weeds of new prairie plantings except 
maybe the sweet clovers. Now perennial grasses and Eurasian legumes, 
those are something to worry about.
James C. Trager 

On 24 Apr 00 at 10:25, Brett Roberts wrote:

> Ms. Green,
> 
> I think the ideas that were presented by others fit your
> situation with one exception.  The formulation of glyphosate
> (Roundup TM) that can be used adjacent to aquatic environments
> is (Rodeo).  As many have stated, getting rid of the existing
> vegetation is pivotal.  As you many already well know "getting
> rid" of existing vegetation is easier said than done,
> especially when the existing vegetation is comprised of
> introduced, cool season perennials e.g. tall fescue, kentucky
> bluegrass etc.  For this reason I would use a Rodeo spray
> program to get a complete kill of the existing species.  I
> would do this prior to any drastic tillage because of the
> erosion hazard to the detention pond.  A very light disking to
> stimulate regrowth of the existing species from the rhizomes
> would be helpful.  A very light disking will break the thatch
> so it can decompose but not leave the soil vulnerable to
> erosion.  This will also stimulate the growth of the meristems
> on the rhizomes that weren't killed by the previous
> application of glyphosate.  Some have mentioned the use of
> "Plateau"
> as a post emergence treatment after the prairie species have
> been planted.  It is a great tool.  The problem is that it
> can't be used around water.  Since this isn't an option in
> your case, the glyphosate program seems the most viable.  Once
> you have killed the existing vegetation, you may want to
> consider no-till planting your prairie species because
> excessive tillage is going to cause erosion into the adjacent
> detention pond.  Also by not tilling the soil into a fine
> powder, you will avoid bringing more weed seeds to the surface
> to compete with the new prairie.  In areas the have been
> previously in turf, the weed(s) to be afraid of is crabgrass,
> (Digitaria spp.).  In farm fields it is usually foxtails
> (Setaria spp.).  I hope this helps.
> 
> Brett Roberts
> State Conservation Agronomist
> USDA-Natural Resources Conservation Service
> Champaign, Illinois   
> 
> 
> "Ruth A. Green" wrote:
> > 
> > I have an area that we will be restoring to prairie that has just been exotics
> > and primarily hard fescue.  The area surrounds a retention pond.  I would like
> > your expert advise as to the best way to prepare the site.
> > I am concerned about erosion and herbicide drift into the retention pond.  This
> > area is about 10 acres in size.
> > I have access to tractors, plows, disks and spray equipment.  That is not a
> > problem.  Thanks for your input.
> > 
> > "PrairieSource.com" wrote:
> > 
> > > I've been reading this thread on advice for planting and not seen anyone
> > > mention the use of Plateau herbicide, though Roundup has been mentioned
> > > freely. I've been using Plateau for 4 years now and can boast that I can
> > > establish native grass stands in one growing season with the weed control
> > > offered by this product. (Provided the weather cooporates)
> > >
> > > I particularly like a tank mix of Plateau and Roundup. Roundup provides burn
> > > down of the existing vegetation and Plateau provides some residual weed
> > > control. I've found, just enough weed control to allow the native grasses
> > > and labeled forbs a chance to get going before the weeds invade to rob the
> > > natives of their resources, water, light and nutrients.
> > >
> > > As most of you know, weed control is not the only factor in establishing a
> > > good stand. Seedbed preparation is important too. I belive it was Mike
> > > Anderson that made the all important point of removing the thatch or litter
> > > before planting. Critically important for successful no-till.
> > >
> > > Jef Hodges
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Robert Wernerehl <rwernere@midplains.net>
> > > To: <prairie@mallorn.com>
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2000 5:51 PM
> > > Subject: planting preparation
> > >
> > > > Hi folks,
> > > >
> > > > I have a friend with a large field he wants to plant with a seed drill
> > > this
> > > > fall. He mowed and sprayed last fall and looks like he got a pretty good
> > > > kill. There is a thick layer of thatch on the field right now. He plans to
> > > > spray again this summer if it greens up. Is there any point in burning off
> > > > the duff now, perhaps that it would better expose what is left alive, so
> > > it
> > > > can be sprayed, or can it just wait until fall to burn it off before
> > > > planting? Any thoughts. Thanks much.
> > > >
> > > > Bob Wernerehl
> > > > Barneveld, Wisconsin
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> > > >
> > >
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James C. Trager, Ph. D.
Shaw Arboretum
P.O. Box 38
Gray Summit MO 63039
PH# 636-451-3512
FAX 636-451-5583
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