Re: SQUASH BUGS
Brad & Tom,
There is a lot to this subject! Your on the right track but consider the
leaf canopy in lieu of the root structure. Roots will seek optimum growing
conditions. A balance between temperature and the amount of oxygen they
require. Thus your need for compost and a good tilth depth. Soil temp is too
hot they go deeper, not hot enough they grow closer to the surface.
Extremely hot in general they will remain under the leaf canopy until the
canopy has extended over the soil, cooling it enough for safe root growth.
The leafs on the other hand can not do this. They are at the mercy of mother
nature. Due to the extremely large size and surface area of giant pumpkin
leafs their respiration rate can't keep up with the amount of water required
to cool them in extreme heat conditions, regardless of their root structure
or development. By overhead cooling the leaf you can supplement the water
they can not take up to cool themselves. The trick is to keep the leafs cool
but not saturate your soil to the point that it becomes water logged. Sandy
soil or sandy loam is not a problem but when you hit clay this can be a real
issue!
Chris
====================================================================
>Tom,
> Prematurity is a problem. I think it definitely stems from heat
>stress on the plant, more specifically the roots. When the ground gets to
hot
>the roots slow down or stop supplying the the plant with the necessary
water
>to the plant. In your rodale book of composting read from page 47 to page
52.
>pay particlar attention to the relationship of ground temperature and how
it
>effects the roots uptake of water. We know that when the leaves wilt it is
>under stress and is not operating efficiently but we have yet to answer the
>question why and how to resolve the problem. Josh who raised the 815
believes
>the key is the roots and I believe him. If you keep the ground temp below
>say 90 or 95 by using cool water the roots/plant will operate more
>efficiently and solve the stress/premature ripening problem. The obvious
>problem then becomes making the ground to wet and causing root rot RIGHT?
>Well the reason Josh didn't have this problem was because his soil was
almost
>pure compost which allowed the dirt to be moist but still loose and
aerated.
>This is our new theory. What do you think. I believe it so much I've added
12
>cu. yds of compost for two plants.
>
>anxiously awaiting your response P.S. use pounce for vine borers. It
works.
>
>Brad
>
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