RE: Let's try this again (LONG TECHNICAL VERSION)

Here's some pH Log Base 10 info:

Just for those out there who don't know what log base 10, log is
exponential. 
In log base 10, Log 100 is 2, Log 100000 is 5. (10 to the 5th power) In
other
words it means that a pH of 2 is 10, times a pH of 1. A pH of 5 would be 100
times a pH of 3. A pH of 7 is 10 times more than a pH of 6. So it seems to
me
that it would take a lot to lower a pH of an acre 1 full pH.
Math lesson for the day.

The above is an explanation from a member of my tomato group/list. Below is
a report about sodic soils, primarily out West, but should give some insight
(hopefully.) Because your soil pH is higher than optimal, it may pertain.

Gypsum is calcium sulfate
Lime is calcium carbonate.. 


ALKALINE SOILS
AND THE BUFFERING AFFECT OF CALCIUM CARBONATE


Curtis E. Swift, Ph.D.
Colorado State University
Cooperative Extension
Tri River Area Agent (Horticulture)

Western Colorado Soils
Reducing Soil pH
Buffering Effect of Calcium Carbonate 

Western Colorado Soils 
The acidity or basicity of a soil is referred to as pH and is based 
on the concentration of the hydrogen ions in the soil solution. As 
the hydrogen ion concentration (H+) in the soil increases, the pH 
drops increasing the acidity of the soil. If the hydrogen ion 
concentration drops in relationship to the hydroxyl ion (OH-) 
concentration, the pH increases with the soil becoming more basic 
(or alkaline). Since pH is based on a logarithmic scale of 10, each 
unit change in pH (i.e. 7 to 6) is a 10 fold change in hydrogen ion 
concentration. 

Soils in the valleys of Western Colorado typically have a pH of 7.5 
to 8.5 creating a basic/alkaline condition. Gardeners hoping to grow 
blueberries (pH preference of 4.5) would need to change the pH 
accordingly. When changing a soil from a pH of 7.5 to a pH of 4.5, a 
1000 fold change in the hydrogen ion concentration would need to be 
made. 


Reducing soil pH 
Soil pH is usually reduced by the use of acidifying agents such as 
elemental sulfur or sulfuric acid. When sulfur is added to soil it 
combines with water and oxygen through bacterial activity and 
changes to sulfuric acid. This reaction takes place slowly over 6 
to 8 weeks based on soil moisture and temperature conditions. It 
should be noted that since this process is accomplished through 
bacterial activity, when soil is pasteurized to eliminate pathogens 
as is often done with houseplant potting soil, this acidifying 
process is unlikely to occur as the necessary bacteria are killed. 
Sulfuric acid is much quicker acting but should be used with caution 
as previously mentioned. 


The Buffering Effect of Calcium Carbonate 
The soils of Western Colorado are highly buffered with free lime 
(calcium carbonate - CaCO3). Any sulfuric acid coming into contact 
with calcium carbonate will react producing water (H2O), carbon 
dioxide (CO2) and calcium sulfate (CaSO4). No increase in hydrogen 
ion concentration occurs in this reaction, consequently no change in 
soil pH can occur. Instead, an increase in the salt level takes 
place due to the resulting increase in concentration of the salt 
gypsum (calcium sulfate - CaSO4).

If the free lime in Western Colorado soils could be neutralized, any 
additional applications of sulfur or sulfuric acid would bring about 
a pH change. Six tons of sulfur (or 20 tons of sulfuric acid) is 
required per acre to neutralize each percentage of calcium 
carbonate. Many western Colorado soils contain 5 percent or more of 
calcium carbonate, thus 30 tons of sulfur or 100 tons of sulfuric 
acid would need to be applied. With up to four thousand feet of 
calcium-based Mancos shale under these valley soils and with the 
irrigation water containing calcium carbonate, the possibility of 
reducing pH in gardens and lawns is highly unlikely. Gardeners 
wishing for an instant remedy for this problem can rest assured that 
no such cure currently exists. 

Greenhouse operators and homeowners working with potted plants can 
effectively adjust pH as they are working with a finite amount of 
soil. In those instances where a peatmoss based potting soil is 
used, it may be necessary to raise the pH due to the acidifying 
affect of the peat moss. Calcium carbonate (CaCO3) is typically used 
to accomplish this task. When the pH of a potting soil needs to be 
lowered as when growing citrus, azaleas or Easter lillies, the use 
of sulfuric acid or sulfur may be needed. 

Sulfur and gypsum (calicum sulfate) continue to be sold in Western 
Colorado as remedies to correct the soil problems in gardens and 
lawns due to a lack of understanding of the soil chemistry in the 
area. Farmers and gardeners alike should avoid the use of gypsum 
unless a soil test indicates a high sodium concentration and a low 
lime content. Such a soil is know as a sodic or alkali soil. Western 
Colorado soils are alkaline (pH above 7) and the two terms (alkali 
and alkaline) are sometimes confused. Western Colorado has very few 
true sodic soils and the use of gypsum should be avoided unless 
indicated by a soil test. 
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Right now, let me say that I'm in no way associated with the organization
below; I use a lot of drip irrigation so we do share some common methods,
though they use a flood principle instead, of soluble fertilizers. I do like
some of their ideas though. While the recommendations are for typical
veggies & no mention of AG's, theory & methods make sense.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
A follow-up was posted by Jim Kennard, from foodforeveryone.org. They teach
how to grow vegetables in raised soil or raised beds, closely spaced, that
put out bountiful harvests. Their typical beds for tomatoes are 18" wide x
30ft long and plants are as close as 9" apart (tomatoes.) I'm just briefing
you all so you get an idea of this "Mittleider method" so you understand
what's being referred to when he talks about Pre-Plant Mix, Weekly Feed,
etc. In short, they usually add lime to the bed, then the "Pre-Plant Mix",
then feed the beds once a week with the "Weekly Feed."

When questioned about the Pre-Plant Mix:

There is no ammonium nitrate in Pre-Plant Mix.

It is made up of 5# lime or gypsum, 4 ounces Epsom Salt, and one 
ounce 20 Mule Team Borax. That mix is applied one time per crop at 
the rate of 2# for an 18"-wide soil-bed 30' long. That amounts to 
about 2 level tablespoons for each tomato plant - mixed into the soil 
before planting - to last the entire growing season.

To make 26 pounds of Weekly-Feed Fertilizer, mix together the following:

Calcium NitrateCaNO3 10 pounds 
Ammonium NitrateAmNO3 (34-0-0) 3 pounds 8 ounces 
PhosphorusP (0-45-0) 3 pounds 12 ounces 
Magnesium SulfateMgSO4 (Epsom Salt) 2 pounds 12 ounces 
PotassiumK (0-0-60) 4 pounds 12 ounces 
BoronB (Borax) 3 ounces 
ManganeseMnSO4 2 ounces 
ZincZnSO4 3 ounces 
Iron(Fe) Chelate #330 = ounce 
Copper SulfateCuSO4 < ounce 
MolybdenumMo < ounce 
GypsumCaSO4 1 pound 

Jim Kennard
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Then his response to the Colorado Report:

May I share with you the 4 years' growing experience of Jacob 
Mittleider in the 4-Corners area of SO. Utah, Co., Az, and NM. He 
found soil conditions basically as described by Dr. Swift.

To begin he used gypsum in his Pre-Plant Mix and ammonium sulfate for 
his Weekly Feed nitrogen source, along with the same level of micro-
nutrients he'd used everywhere else. 

He found his plants were consistently showing deficiency symptoms of 
the micro-nutrients or trace elements, and so he had to add 
corrective treatments for them. After correcting for micro-nutrient 
deficiencies, Dr. Mittleider grew great gardens in several locations 
for all four years he was there. We have substantial video footage 
documenting his experiences.

He instructed me today that if anyone is growing in that environment 
he would recommend using gypsum for the Pre-Plant, and ammonium 
sulfate, plus double the normal micro-nutrient amounts in the Weekly 
Feed.


Jim Kennard
--------------------------------------------------------------------

He also wrote:

Dr. Mittleider says to supply calcium while taking care of the soil 
pH is best and that it's simple, easy to do, and inexpensive. And 
for the folks in dozens of countries around the world who do it - it 
works - with no smells, worries, problems, hassles, or soil tests.

If you receive more than 20" of annual rainfall apply lime, either 
agricultural or dolomite, to your garden once before planting each 
crop. For the heaviest clay soil use 1800# per acre, and for 
extremely sandy soil use 800# per acre. An acre is 43,560 square 
feet, so just do the math for your own garden size. For example, a 30 
X 50' garden is 1/29th of an acre, so in clay soil you'd apply 62# of 
lime, and in sandy soil you'd apply 27.5#.

Those amounts assume you are broadcasting the lime on your entire 
garden plot. If, however, you do as Jacob recommends and work only 
in the confines of the Soil-Bed in which you will actually plant, you 
will use substantially less. Again using the 30 X 50' garden as an 
example, Janet and Mary would have 10 18"-wide beds in that space. 
In a high-rainfall area with extremely heavy clay soil, they would 
use 3# lime per bed - or 30# in the 30 X 50' garden - less than 1/2 
the amount they would need if they were covering the entire garden. 
In sandy soil they would use 2# per bed.

If you receive less than 20" of annual rainfall you would use 
gypsum. In extreme alkaline conditions, additional sulfur is used. 
Both lime and gypsum are to be mixed with the soil, rather than 
applied just to the surface.

Jim Kennard
--------------------------------------------------------------------


Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pumpkins@hort.net [o*@hort.net] On Behalf Of
Dale Fisher
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 12:59 PM
To: pumpkins@hort.net
Subject: Let's try this again


SUGGESTIONS PLEASE!!!!!

Ok, I know it is weigh-off time, but since I just got soil test results back
I am interested in planning for next season.  I posted my results a few days
ago, and not even 1 response!

I am considering adding gypsum to my patch to increase calcium content. I
have a 10,000sq foot patch, at what rate would I apply it based on the
following test results???   

 

OM (%): 5.8             

NO3-N (ppm):  255   

P1 (Weak Bray):  72 

NaHCO3-P (Olsen):  145          

K (ppm):  2171          

Mg (ppm):  526         

Ca(ppm): 1906           

Na (ppm): 69             

SOILPh: 7.3

CEC (meq/100g): 19.7

%K: 28.2

%Mg: 22.0

%Ca: 48.3

%Na: 1.5

Ca : Mg ratio: 2.2

SO4 (ppm): 98

Zn (ppm): 5.5

Mn (ppm): 19

Fe (ppm): 55

Cu (ppm): 2.1

Boron (ppm): 1.1

Soluble Salts (mmhos/cm): 5.3

I am also adding 50+ yards of manure and composted hay as well as a cover
crop this winter.

 

Thanks for any suggestions!

 

God Bless,

 

Dale E Fisher

daleefisher@starband.net

"The Harder We Work, The Luckier We Get!"

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