This is a public-interest archive. Personal data is pseudonymized and retained under GDPR Article 89.

Re: Leeks

Stephen Griffiths wrote:
> 
> Christina wrote:-
> 
> >I just planted some leeks in my garden, and for some reason I feel there
> >is something special I should do for them, like mounding up soil around
> >them as they grow.  They were nursery starts, with about 60 all crammed
> >into 6sq in, and I managed to separate them into little clumps of 2 or 3
> >for planting.  Any smaller than that and they got too unwieldy.  Any
> >advice about leeks?
> 
> Usually leeks are planted in the bed after the early new potatoes are
> pulled up in July.
> You need to plant them when they are about pencil thickness although
> thinner is OK if you can handle them.
> The traditional method is as follows.
> 
> Take a dibber, rake handle, crowbar or anything that you can push into the
> soil to make a cylindrical hole about 6 to 9 inches deep,  in rows or
> blocks at about 9 to 12 inch apart.
> Drop ONE leek plant into each hole and then pour water into the hole; a
> process called "puddling in" on this side of the pond.
> Do not push the earth back around the transplant and do not worry if it
> appears to be down a deep dark hole, it will be perfectly happy.
> Some "authorities" suggest that you should trim the roots to one inch and
> cut back the leaves to six inches before putting them in their holes. I
> have done this in the past and don't find it is any better than not doing
> it.
> 
> Keep them watered in dry weather to start with, but once established you
> don't really need to water them much unless it is really dry and the soil
> is dry down to about six inches.
> 
> The leek will develop a white stalk underground about as long as the depth
> of the hole you made. There is no need to earth up, in fact this can cause
> earth to lodge between the leaves and make them difficult to clean and
> gritty to eat.
> That is also the reason for not backfilling the dibber hole and for the
> puddling in process.
> 
> Pests and Diseases. Very few. Leeks are essentially trouble free. Leeks can
> get most of the diseases of onions, in theory, but rarely seem to do so.
> You may get Leek Rust in a warm dry autumn, as we have had here for the
> last year or three. But the problem is mainly cosmetic and can be dealt
> with by removing infected leaves and prevented to some extent by wider
> spacing between plants.
> Leek Rust is recognised by small, light-brown, raised patches or pustules
> on the leaves. The leaf eventually dies back if not removed. There are
> fungicides you can use but not many. They may not be available in the USA.
> We can still use Mancozeb (should you want to!) here but I believe it is
> banned in the States.
> 
> Hope you enjoy your Leeks. They are one of my favourite winter vegetables.
> They almost make winter worthwhile.
Stephen,

At what time do you start the leek seed?  Or are leek seedlings
available for sale in the UK?  I can assure you they are not in the US. 
If you want leeks in the US, you start with seed.  BTW, I love the
puddling technique.  I'll use it next year.

Steve  (Maritime...)  


> 
> Regards
> Stephen
> 
> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
> Stephen Griffiths,
> 34 Fernwood Crescent, London, N20 0RN. UK.
> e-mail:- stephen.griffiths@dial.pipex.com
> URL:- http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/town/close/xpz05
> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Other Mailing lists | Author Index | Date Index | Subject Index | Thread Index