Re: Zumbarizing

Hi Bill! I have to use Benlate now, too,because of crown rot spreading due
to the very wet conditions we had here in Europe recently  (although I object
to using too many chemicals in the garden). But itīs not that harmless! Itīs
very toxic for ground dwelling creatures, especially for earthworms. I
understand that itīs being taken off the market, because itīs suspected to be
mutagenic. Thereīs a lot of information about this on the www....
About all these propagation methods: Is there any step by step (with photos)
guide on how to do them available anywhere?
BFN, Marie




> Hi Kirsten,
>         Probably the best time to do any of the tricks with buds is just
> as
> the plants are going dormant for the winter. This seems to be the most
> successful timing. You could wait until the leaves begin to yellow, but
> it's
> OK to just do it a couple weeks before that. You want to do it when
> everything is cooling down enough that they won't sprout into growth
> immediately and be destroyed by frost. Benlate is a fungicide that is
> pretty
> safe for humans but still very effective against fungus. I like it because
> it works very well on hostas, even though it may be a problem with some
> other plants, and because getting some on your skin while using it is not
> dangerous. Some other fungicides can cause problems by skin contact and
> they
> are really not any more effective than Benlate on hostas. I've never lost
> a
> hosta to rot when I used Benlate on the cuts or other wounds to the
> rhizome.
> Simply dusting or rubbing a little on the cut is all you need to do, and
> this will have virtually no environmental impact. Unfortunately it is
> being
> pulled from the market for other reasons, so you should get some quick if
> you can. Other fungicides are good too, and since they all seem pretty
> effective, I'd stick to those that are safer to use.
>         What do you nursery folks like for fungicides?
> 
> ........Bill Meyer
> 
> 
> > Hi guys. Earlier this summer I was happy to see that I had a hyacinthina
> > which had two leaves with a wide, white strip on one side between the
> veins.
> > I watched it closely, babied it...but new leaves came out green. So 2 or
> 3
> > weeks ago when I joined this group, I have been looking for a way to
> isolate
> > this little guy in the hopes that next year he might show me some more
> > stripes. I am thrilled to see what you are talking about here. I am
> going
> to
> > give it a try. But a couple of questions?...What zone are you in that
> you
> do
> > this in Oct? You obviously still have leaves on the plant, but how
> dormant
> > is it in Oct? I live in southwest Missouri where the weather does at it
> > pleases. And my other question is what exactly is Benlate? What is its
> > purpose? Thanks already as you have given me the ideas to totally
> exasperate
> > my family as they think I am Hosta-obsessed already. Wait till they see
> me
> > next year!
> 
> > >Hi Ran,
> > >        I have another method that has worked for me. If you have a
> > >division with a sported leaf or two, you would want the bud under that
> leaf
> > >to sprout. What I do with these is wait until early Oct. and remove all
> the
> > >leaves whose buds I don't want to sprout and then scrape off the buds.
> I
> > >leave the leaves I want buds from alone. Before planting again, I dust
> the
> > >plant with a little Benlate. It's pretty much guaranteed that the one
> you
> > >want will come up in the spring. You will get to keep the size that
> way,
> > >but it doesn't isolate as well as your method does.
> > >
> > >........Bill Meyer
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >   Bob
> > >   There are four methods used for crown divison/multiplication.  They
> are
> > >Bud Cuttings (Alex Summers method)  Rossizing, ( the method introduced
> by
> > >Henery Ross)  Zumberizing, (Bill Zumbar)  and Bud Isolation , ( Ran
> > >Lydell's method.)  All these "processes" are done in late summer/early
> > >fall.  Bud Cuttings - Individual buds , from the basel area are
> carefully
> > >removed.  Ideally each has a bit of root.  These can be planted in a
> high
> > >humus soil.  They will come up  in spring looking a bit like Tc plants.
> > >Rossizing - Carefull cuts are made through the entire basel area,
> starting
> > >where the leaves connect.  A sharp , knife is pushed through the base &
> out
> > >the opposit side, and then pulled down ward to the root area.  On
> larger
> > >plants several cuts can be made.  These need to be done carefully so
> not
> to
> > >damage buds on ether side.  Zumberizing - Cuts about 1/4 inch deep are
> made
> > >between the buds.  The knife is pulled ( maintaning the 1/4 inch depth)
> > >down through the base to the root area.  Bud Isolation - An arch shaped
> cut
> > >is made over and down between each bud.  This is continued in the same
> > >manner as with Zumberizing.  In all these methods, a dusting of all
> fresh
> > >cuts with a fungiside is necessary.  I believe Bud Isolation works
> best,
> as
> > >it allows the bud to be totally "isolated"  but still "feed" from
> common
> > >root system.  The resulting plants will come apart easly in spring and
> will
> > >be large and devlope quickly.  This process also allow one to isolate
> > >sports with better cances of not having them abort.
> > >   Thanks
> > >   Ran
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
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> >
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-- 
Marie

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