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EASY TO PROPAGATE- Ancestor roses-

Reply to:
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rosenlund [r*@transport.com]
> Sent: Monday, July 27, 1998 11:28 AM
> To: Rose-List
> Subject: RE: Pruning- Ancestor roses-Propagation
> [regarding Fragrant Cloud] It's my understanding that most hybrid teas are
difficult to propagate. I have only tryed old or own-root roses cuttings. My
first success (about 5 years ago) was a stick about 12 inches long and the
> thickness of a pencil. My mother brought it too me, in the early fall I
think. She told me to put it in the dirt, laying it horizontallly and cover
the whole thing about 3 or 4 inch of dirt. I though she was nuts. But next
spring I had all kinds of little canes a coming off of it.
> My aunt started my great grandma Sophie's grave rose. She just put 10-12
inch early fall cuttings in a jar of plain water and placed it in a cool
dark place. In spring, she potted those that rooted. She has a 9 year old
rose bush from it, my mother's is 7 years old, Mine is just 2 years old.
Plus the original roses that is on the grave and about 91 years old. Eek,
that is old. It has struggle to say alive. ....Anyone else try propagating
roses like these ?
> Perhaps I should try some of their methods. Lot less hassle.
> Sincerely,
> Carleen Rosenlund of Rainier, Oregon -USDA-8
> Sweetbriar - Keeper of Sheep & Old Roses


The rose is one of the MORE EASY PLANTS TO PROPAGATE:
the following is exerpt from

 http://www.rooting-hormones.com/roses.htm

 which  contains many illustrations and photographs

Regards
Joel Kroin
jkroin@hortus.com


ROSES:

Propagate new plants from cuttings and improve transplanting.

Rose growers may have several varieties that are favorites.  From these
favorites there may be some which are desirable to propagate for new plants.
Some rose may be older varieties which are no longer commercially available.
Propagating roses by rooting softwood cuttings is a simple way to obtain
more plants. Some varieties are usually self-rooted. Other varieties have
the upper portion budded or grafted onto a root stock; these root stocks are
usually propagated from cuttings. "Old Garden Roses", shrub roses and
miniature roses may be grown on their own roots. Modern hybrid teas and
floribundas are less predictable.

Rose varieties:

Many rose varieties cuttings are best taken from young stems of the current
seasons growth. When taking cuttings from "non-stop" varieties select stems
on which the flowers petals have just fallen. For "annually flowering"
varieties take cuttings in the late Spring after the flowers have faded.

Budding and grafting:

If you intend to bud or graft plants the rootstock plants are produced from
cuttings. First root the rootstocks from cuttings then perform the budding
or grafting operations. Some growers graft and root the root stocks at the
same time; this technique is called stenting.

Grafting success may be improved using rooting hormones:

Success of a graft union depends on the establishment of a callus bridge
between the cut surfaces of scion and stock, and the subsequent
establishment of a functioning vascular cylinder connecting scion and stock.
Initial callus formation appears to develop about equally on the cut
surfaces of both partners, arising not from the cambial layers but from
parenchyma cells, mostly in the wood just inside the camblum. Soon after
scion and stock calluses have merged, callus cells just below the cambial
cells of the scion begin to divide in the same plane as the camblum. Waves
of cell division proceed from the top down, suggesting that a regulatory
stimulus moves to the cut surface from the growing-shoot tip. Callus
parenchyma cells inside the new camblum cylinder re-differentiate into
functioning xylem cells. Last of all, the new cambium begins producing
phloem cells.

Taking the Cuttings:

Take roses cuttings with some leaves attached. The leaves provide sugars
from photo-synthesis. Some rose varieties will root without leaves.
Depending upon the variety select cuttings with three to five leaves. The
cuttings should be taken in the cool time of the day. Be careful not to let
the cuttings dehydrate; place them in a poly bag, seal and place in a
refrigerated area. Allow a day in a refrigerator to permit callous to form
and seal the wound.

The Type of Cutting:

The type of cut taken can vary. You can leave a bud and leaf node at the
base. Or, leave just a smooth area of stem internode. For some varieties
take the cuttings with a node at the base; the node area may  root more
easily. Depending upon the age of the cutting, for an older cutting wound
the base of the cutting by making 1/2 to 1 inch vertical slits with a knife.

The Stem:

Be sure to choose a healthy, disease-free stem. Any remaining bloom parts
should be removed from the stem by pruning back to the first five-leaflet
leafset (or seven-leaflet set on those varieties which tend to produce
them). Next, count four or five leafsets down the stem and make the bottom
cut on an angle, 1/4" below that leafset. The lower two or three leafsets
should then be stripped from the stem, taking care not to tear the outer
layer of the stem. Depending on the size of the remaining foliage, the
ending leaflets on the leafsets may also be removed to insure that the
foliage is not crowded in the baggie or bottle.

Rooting Hormone Application:

Use the DRY DIP METHOD.

Dip the basal end of the cuttings 3/4 to 1 inch into the powder, one by one
or in small bundles. Make sure that the powder is evenly distributed in a
thin even layer (1/32 to 1/16 inch) over the whole base of the cutting. Too
much powder on the cuttings might result in excessive rooting where there is
surplus powder. Root formation can be expected all over the part of the
cutting covered with the powder. Avoid contact between the powder and
foliage and other over ground parts of the stem since it may cause phyto
toxicity. Tap off the excess powder. Plant the cuttings immediately in moist
media. After treating cuttings take care of them.

Apply Rhizopon AA dry powder rooting hormones, usually #1 or #2 early in the
season or #3 later in the season. 

or

Use the TOTAL IMMERSE METHOD.

First totally immerse the cuttings in the solution for a few seconds then
plant them. You can use a basket to dip the cuttings in a tub. Prevent
bruising by not placing too many cuttings in the solution at once. Allow
time for the solution to dry on the cuttings before watering, misting or
covering. The temperature of the solution should be at least equal to the
cutting temperature. A cold solution temperature causes the stomata of the
cuttings close; the amount of active ingredients absorbed is reduced.

Use Rhizopon AA Water Soluble Tablets at 3-5 tablets per liter of water.
Using of Rhizopon AA will result in a higher percentage of root strikes and
a more of roots on each cutting.

Planting and Taking Care of the Cuttings:

Hints for taking care of the cuttings. Fill the pots firmly with a sterile
potting mix which is moist not soggy. Use a stick to poke a hole in the
soil. Several cuttings can be planted in the same pot. Make sure the hole is
deep enough so that at least the bottom two bud eyes on the cutting will be
below surface level. Treat the cuttings with rooting hormones using the Dry
Dip Method or a Solution method. Place the cutting in the hole and firm the
soil very tightly around it.

Control the humidity:

To prevent the cuttings from dehydrating through the leaves and stems the
cuttings are often propagated under mist systems in controlled greenhouses
or tunnels, in cutting trays covered with plastic.
Maintain adequate moisture in the soil and air humidity. Commercial growers
usually use mist system to prevent wilting. A fine mist of water is sprayed
over the cuttings for a few seconds every few minutes.  Another method is to
stick the cuttings in pots then cover and seal the pot with clear plastic; a
poly bag works well when covering a small pot. When available use a misting
system.

"Pop-Bottle Method":

Construct "greenhouses" for the cuttings using empty two liter soft drink
bottles small pots or cups. use a knife to cut off the bottom of the bottle
where the solid-colored section is joined to the clear section. Discard the
bottom. Keep the bottle cap. Use pots which fit into the bottle bottom. The
top of the bottle should just fit snugly inside the pot rim. Place the top
from the soda bottle over the cutting and press it gently into the soil.
Make sure that there are no gaps through which evaporation could occur. Put
the cap on the bottle, but do not tighten. After a few hours check the
bottles to make sure there is some moisture condensed on the inside of each.
If not, your soil may not have been moist enough and a small amount of
additional water should be added. Place the bottles in a bright light but
not in direct sunlight as below.

"Baggie Method:"

Use large zip lock clear plastic food storage bags to create the greenhouse
atmosphere. Fold the top of the bag down several inches in order to keep the
zipper clean while filling the bag. Place some moist potting soil into the
bag. Firm both soil and bag into a ball shape with a flattened bottom. Use a
stick to poke a 2" deep hole in the soil not the plastic. Treat the cuttings
with rooting hormones. Insert the cutting. and firm the soil tightly around
it. Unfold the top of the bag and close most of the zipper, leaving the last
inch open. Inflate the bag to expand it then close the remaining length.
Finally, place the bag in indirect light as below.

Place the cutting pots in a place where heat does not heat the cuttings. The
cuttings should have bright light to allow photosynthesis. In the spring
many varieties will develop roots in ten days to two weeks. Some varieties
can be rooted in three to four weeks. In the winter roots may form in four
to eight weeks. To determine if a cutting is rooted you can tug lightly on
it; if it resists being pulled out of the pot it is likely rooted.

Cuttings which are treated by the Total Immerse Method will develop roots
fast and have a delayed bud sprout. The cutting is initially putting its
energy to making roots before making leaf.

Take care of the cuttings. Acclimation of the newly-rooted plants should be
done gradually. After the cuttings are rooted  remove discontinue the mist
or remove the cover. Harden them off for a few days by putting the pots in
the shade in a cool place. Once the plants have adjusted to normal humidity
they can be place in regular pots to continue their growth. After the plants
have a good root system move them into brighter light.

Air Layering:

Air layering involves the wounding the stem of the plant while it is on the
stock plant. Treat the stem then cover it. Roots form in the covered area. 
The tip of the stem sticking out of the covered area will continue to grow.
It will soon become a new plant with it's own roots. The roots form at the
wound. After the roots form sever the stem from the stock plant.

Use Rhizopon AA dry powder rooting hormones to treat air layers. Apply using
a clean soft brush using Rhizopon AA #2 or #3. If using cocoa fibers make
sure the processing salts have been removed. As an alternate you can use
Rhizopon AA Water Soluble Tablet. Soak the moss or cocoa fibers in 3-10
tablets per liter water. Wound the stem of the cane. Apply the fiber. Cover
the fibers with aluminum foil to protect against drying out.
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