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Re: Lenten Rose (Helleborus orientalis)


Don't forget to use the Propagation Mailing list archives and do your
searches for
propagation methods of your favorite plants.
http://www.mallorn.com/lists/search.cgi  and use the word helleborus.
You will
see 37 discussions on this species

Or http://www.mallorn.com/lists/seeds-list/search.cgi

>Perennials DIGEST           Friday, 25 July 1997        Volume 00 : Number
>168
>
>In this issue:
>
>        Re: In the dark
>        Re: Lenten Rose
>        Re: edges
>        Re: Houttuynia as an edger?!?
>        Glads
>
>
>From: "Marge Talt" <mtalt@clark.net>
>Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 02:13:51 -0400
>Subject: Re: Lenten Rose
>
>Hi Marilyn,
>
>I think someone else provided good instructions for sowing seed.  Seed on
>my plants ripens around June.  Could be different for you.  Since I've
>managed to miss collecting my seed so far by not getting after it in time,
>I'm not expert here.  But, what you need to do is take sections of old
>nylon stocking, securing one end with rubber bands or twisties and place
>them over flowers that have swollen seedpods forming while the pods are
>still green.  Secure the stocking bag to the stem behind the flower with a
>twistie.  Then along about mid June start checking frequently to see if the
>seeds have dropped into the bag and when they have, remove the bag and
>collect the seed.  Sow it immediately.  You could sow in a prepared bed
>right into soil as Mother Nature does, but you would have more likelihood
>of getting seedlings if you plant in pots with a bit more control of their
>environment.  Just planted in the ground means the seeds are at the mercy
>of the many critters who eat them or just plain move them around for the
>fun of it.  Use a commercial potting soil that drains very well - peat
>based is best, IMO.  I generally use a 3" pot, but you can use whatever
>size you want.  Really big pots have no advantage and the mix can get sour.
> Smaller pots dry out too fast.  You can also use flats or recycled cell
>packs but you need to watch these as they dry out quickly.  Once seed has
>been sown and has taken in water it is fatal to let it dry out.
>
>Easiest way, IMO, to take care of the need for cold treatment is to sow in
>pots, cover the pots with a layer of fine granite grit which keeps the soil
>and seed from washing due to heavy rains or hard watering.  Put the pots in
>a flat in a shady location that is somewhere you can easily get to or pass
>frequently, even in winter.  I have made a cover for my seed flats from old
>window screening that seems to work very nicely keeping out the squirrels
>and debris from trees, etc.  Don't let the pots dry out, but leave them
>outside all winter.  If the seeds don't germinate before winter, they
>should in spring.  When they do, you can pot them on until they are large
>enough to plant in the garden or plant the seedlings out in a holding bed
>in a shady spot.  If the seeds should germinate before winter, you will
>need to sink the seed pot into the ground to keep the roots from freezing
>in winter, but I wouldn't prick out the seedlings late in the season,
>they'd be better off left in the seed pot until spring.
>
>Hope this helps.  If I didn't make sense, let me know.  BTW, if you have
>never grown from seed, you might want to read Amber Hearn's excellent
>series on propagation.  Donna Dawson has the series on her I Can Garden web
>site.  I think the URL is http://www.icangarden.com   If that doesn't work,
>let me know and I'll go look it up.   Amber also has much of this series on
>her Perennials page at Suite101....URL is in my Sig...just sign up (it's
>free) and go to the Perennials section  under Gardening and look at 'more
>articles'.  If you go to Suite101, check out the Garden Tour - you will
>likely find you know some of the people whose gardens are 'on tour'.
>
>Marge Talt, zone 7 Maryland
>mtalt@clark.net
>Editor:  Gardening in Shade
>http://www.suite101.com
>
>
>
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