Re: Peat moss
At 12:46 AM -0600 7/14/98, jaime wrote:
>response to the same question. I'm certain others on the list
>have alternatives as well.
When I started gardening two years ago I got a lot of conflicting
advice on how to fix my compacted clay soil. Out of total frustration I
did some comparison areas using various assortments of sand, peat,
manure, cotton burr compost and gypsum. I made a chart of the results
this spring. If anyone would like a copy, please email me as I think it
is a little long for the list.
My best results, by far, is a cotton burr compost and sand mix. The
second best is the cotton burr alone. Also, since my soil is short of
organic matter, I prefer the faster decaying mulches over the longer
lasting ones.
>Please remember, this is all my opinion. fwiw.
>Long ago I determined that peat does little to nothing as a soil
>amendment so I have limited it's use to what it is supremely
>good at.
Based on my results, I'd say that spaghnum peat as a clay soil
amendment is pure evil. It hasn't substantially broken down in 2 1/2
years time and, combined with the clay soil, turns into a soppy mess
that takes forever to dry out when wet.
I live in the midwest and we tend to have wet, cold weather in late
winter and early spring. One of my Japanese Iris (supposed to like
wetter soils) rotted in a peat and manure amended area this spring. I
can not imagine what type of plant would be happy over wintering in this
heavy, wet muck.
Also, Jaime did not mention that if peat is not dampened before use (a
messy job) it can form pockets in the soil that will remain bone-dry
for the next millennium. Although I have no experience with sandy soils,
I can see that peat might be of some benefit for moisture retention but
it is my understanding that compost holds more moisture than peat.
....It is a soiless mix
>material that is wood-based.... It goes by several
>different names depending on the distributor (large distributors
>use their own labelling and names) but it is made by a Canadian
>company called ASB-Greenworld with distribution points in
>Ontario, New Brunswick and Valdosta, Georgia.
>
How is it weight-wise in comparison to peat-based products? Is it light
enough for hanging baskets?
>Most frequently however, people use peat moss as a soil
>amendment. Many garden writers recommend it. I simply am
>unable to find any benefit whatsoever from peat as a soil
>amendment.
In my area, they must sell a gazillion bales of the stuff. Has anyone
on the list had good results using peat to amend clay?
I don't know how things are in other parts of the country but I'm
beginning to seriously wonder if that a lot of failures with
perennials, trees and shrubs here are more to do with compacted,
wet soil than extreme weather. If something as wet-tolerant as a
Japanese Iris will rot in the spring it seems to me that most
everything else would have a tough go of it wintering over using our
most popular soil amendments, peat and cow manure.
> ...My major amendments have been wood chips (all free) and
>municipal humus/leaf mold (extremely reasonably priced). I have
>not noticed a nitrogen depletion problem from the wood chips
>mixed into the soil. If or when I do, it is easily and
>inexpensively remedied.
I used shredded bark for amending the soil for some trees I planted
this spring. I couldn't find information about how much nitrogen I
needed to compensate for so I used a pint of alfalfa pellets for every
3 cu. ft. of bark.
The trees are not showing signs of either fertilizer burn or a nitrogen
deficit. Alfalfa pellets and meal are available at the feed store here
for $7 for a 50-lb. bag.
>Free organic soil amendments:
>....Stop any landscaping company or tree service in your area and
>ask for the chips, grass, leaves. They will most always be more
>than delighted to give them to you.
Have you ever had problems with imported pests or diseases with this
material? It seems that a good deal of their business would involve the
removal of sickly plant material.
>+ Most municipalities now compost "yard waste" aka "garden
>gold". My county will deliver a finely screened 4-5 cu. yd.
>truckload of rich, black humus/leaf mold for the cost of the
>guy, the truck & fuel.
I can not find yard waste that has been tested for metals/industrial
contaminants (our municipality uses a private hauler). I'm particularly
concerned about lead which is commonly present in the plant material
that was growing around busy streets before the switch to unleaded
gasoline. Has anyone on the list found an inexpensive way around this?
Jaime, thanks for the great post.
---
Peggy Enes (peggy@unicom.net) Zone 5/6
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