Re: Peat moss


Peggy Enes <peggy@unicom.net> wrote:

> Based on my results, I'd say that spaghnum peat as a clay soil
> amendment is pure evil. It hasn't substantially broken down in 2 1/2
> years time and, combined with the clay soil, turns into a soppy mess
> that takes forever to dry out when wet.

Yup.  AND if it is just layered on in the late fall, as many 
gardening writers advise, even if well wetted, it appears to 
most often _prevent_  the natural incorporation of water & 
materials from permeating the soil.  In my garden anyhow.  I lay 
down a layer of peat, layer of manure, layer of compost and a 
layer of large hardwood chips in a garden bed in early November. 
In the adjacent bed I did precisely the same (and at the same 
time) eliminating the peat layer.  

In April, when I took my trusty digging bar & heavy duty spading 
fork to the beds, guess what I found?  The peat-free bed layers 
were nicely blended and had begun to penetrate the hard 
clay/rock layer ... around an inch deep.  There were tons of 
earthworms in the layered amendments.  The peat layered beds and 
were barely blended and there was absolutely _no_ visible 
penetration of the clay base.  I worked twice as hard digging 
that bed.  That was 3 years ago.  There remains an observable 
difference between the two beds.

> Also, Jaime did not mention that if peat is not dampened before use (a
> messy job) it can form pockets in the soil that will remain bone-dry
> for the next millennium. Although I have no experience with sandy soils,
> I can see that peat might be of some benefit for moisture retention but
> it is my understanding that compost holds more moisture than peat.

Ummmm ... I'm not sure that it helps sandy soil either.  I'm 
going to see if I can enlist John Mertus in this and see if he 
will experiment with peat vs compost a little this fall.  His 
Rhode Island soil is very sandy and he has written on the 
subject on his website.  The URL is 
http://www.cog.brown.edu/gardening
go to his writings and select the soils article.  Sorry, but I 
don't have the precise page handy & I'm not online at the 
moment.

> How is it weight-wise in comparison to peat-based products? Is it light
> enough for hanging baskets?

Much, much lighter even when well saturated.  Yes, absolutely 
light enough for hanging baskets.

> The trees are not showing signs of either fertilizer burn or a nitrogen
> deficit. Alfalfa pellets and meal are available at the feed store here
> for $7 for a 50-lb. bag.

I"m reading more and more about very positive results from using 
alfalfa pellets in many regards.  I"m going to run some similar 
experiments with them this fall.

> Have you ever had problems with imported pests or diseases with this
> material? It seems that a good deal of their business would involve the
> removal of sickly plant material.

I ask.  If so, they don't bring it to me.  And I visually 
inspect them pretty carefully.  If it appears to be viral or 
fungal, I add it to an area that is being solarized for 6 months 
or so then it goes into a special composting pile.  I've never 
had any problems with this though I imagine there could be.  If 
I'm not tickled with the way it looks, I'll compost it for a few 
years.  I have the luxury of space that allows that.

> I can not find yard waste that has been tested for metals/industrial
> contaminants (our municipality uses a private hauler). I'm particularly
> concerned about lead which is commonly present in the plant material
> that was growing around busy streets before the switch to unleaded
> gasoline. Has anyone on the list found an inexpensive way around this?

Hmmmm.  Interesting question.  I do send out a test sample to 
the extension service.  It's worth the $25 to me.  Good 
question.

> Jaime, thanks for the great post.

Back at you, Peggy.  :)

Jaime
"I have no particular talent. I am merely inquisitive."
 A. Einstein

jknoble@warwick.net
Z6/5, NW NJ
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