Re: Delph replys

Peggy,

We find that moisture, mulching and crown and root rots are 
something of an interesting balance. Where we mulch, the 
delphinium are in beds raised about 6 - 8 inches above general 
ground level and the mulch is placed on top of that. Everything must 
be very well drained or there will be problems. The thing to avoid 
above all is warm, wet feet. Delph will survive being drowned in water 
at 40degF or so for weeks but will die in hours if the water is, say 
75deg. If the mulch is really thick and the beds are not raised then 
there could be a problem in wet weather.

Leaving a few square inches clear of mulch around the young plant 
certainly makes me feel better (and maybe the plant too)

Re fertilizer, I doubt if there is much conflict between organic and 
mineral fertilizers if both are used sensibly. It is easy to get the 
nutrient status of the soil out of balance with mineral fertilizer and I 
always recommend having a soil test done before applying mineral 
fertilizers. Organics are far safer in that they are easier to balance 
and far less likely to build to toxic or bothersome levels. I find that a 
combination of both organic fertilizer (like chicken manure ... 
composted) and a general balanced mineral fertilizer does a great 
job

Terry Dowdeswell
18 Henderson Ave
Tuakau, New Zealand
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Terry@delphinium.co.nz
http://www.delphinium.co.nz
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Average daily maximum  above 20degC for 5-6 months
Average monthly maximum above 25degC for 4 months
Average daily maximum always above14degC
Average daily minimum never below 7.8degC
1-10 ground frosts per year, almost no air frost
Rainfall mean july 135mils, Jan 70mils, annual 1185mils

> I've mulched the dickens out of the blue butterflies (4-6" in summer) but
> I think these are a great deal less fussy than the giant delphs. The
> Dowdsewells that I tested this summer in full sun had 6" of pine bark
> mulch on them but they definitely fried from the top down. The roots on
> the one plant I checked at the time were OK but have since disappeared.
> The ones under shade are still in pots.
> 
> If the larger delphinium are prone to root rot it might be worth trying to
> mulch with something that is very slow to break down like cypress or
> cedar. That should prevent an excessive or quick build-up of rotted mulch
> and still keep the delphs tootsies moist and cool.
> 
> It also occurred to me to wonder if fertilizer might play a role in
> delphinium being prone to root rot. I've read that there are antifungal
> and antibacterial microorganisms in a soil with decent amounts of organic
> matter and that they don't appreciate excess fertilizer one little bit.
> This would seem to pose a potential conflict since delphinium like a lot
> of food.
> 
> I've used compost, Osmocote, pelletized fish emulsion and alfalfa meal at
> various times on the butterflies which are all fairly slow release.
> Perhaps that might play a small part in why they didn't object to the
> heavy mulch.
> 
> Thanks for the heads up on root rot problem--I'll make a point to watch
> for problems. I was aware of the unpleasant tendency to crown rot so I've
> been very careful about keeping the mulch well away from the base of the
> plants--an interesting job with 6" of mulch on the butterflies spaced 1'
> apart. :)
> 
> At 7:10 PM -0500 11/20/98, LONDE@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > Peggy--
> > No, I did not forget mulching.  I don't mulch my delphiniums because
> > they are susceptible to root rot. I have never had root rot on a
> > delphinium and that may, or may not, be because I don't mulch them.  I
> > just make sure their roots are shaded by nearby plants.  If you do mulch
> > yours and have not had crown rot, please let me know.  I hate to add
> > something else to my delphinium to-do list, but it would help hold
> > moisture.  Also, I think your idea to use vines to shade delphiniums is
> > great.
> 
> ---
> Peggy Enes (peggy@unicom.net)   Zone 5/6    NE KS     AHS Heat Zone 7
> 
> 
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